-- Matt Bates, June 09.2006
    Derwood, Maryland  :

Pam and I returned from our Costa Rican riding vacation last night, just before midnight and I am writing while the memories are fresh in my mind.
   It still seems impossible, but there are miles upon miles of wide-open beach, without a soul in sight in Quanacaste -- the northwest province where we rode for four days. These are beaches of surpassing beauty: white, black and golden sands, with dramatic formations of volcanic rock and grassy bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
   We rode four and five hours a day, seeing no more than a half dozen people swimming or surfing. We were free to canter or break into a gallop without bothering anyone.
   Our host, Erika Rapthel-Kieser, did a great job selecting horses that matched our abilities yet allowed us to ride to the full extent of our abilities. This was important because Pam and I are intermediate riders and we left Costa Rica feeling we had enjoyed ourselves and improved our riding skills, as well.
   Erika?s horses are so well trained and cared for and this is important, too, because surprising things happen when you ride through a village or follow a densely forested trail. A soccer ball suddenly rolls in front of your horse; a lizard darts across the path or a family of monkeys erupts into howls in the trees overhead. We rode young, strong, spirited horses, but never once did they spook or bolt.
   Our accommodations were attractive, clean and comfortable and the quality of the food was consistently good to excellent. (I am living proof you can ride four hours a day in the tropical sun and still gain weight.) There is an abundance of dairy products, fresh fish, seafood, fruits and vegetables and tasty grass-fed beef and other meats.
   Although Costa Rica is a poor, developing country, the government disbanded its military half a century ago, opting, instead, to invest in education, health care and eco-tourism. As a result, 27% of the land is protected by national law, the tap water is drinkable (at least in all the regions we traveled) and kitchens and restrooms are generally clean and well maintained, even in the humble local cantinas. Perhaps most important, the people are outgoing and friendly and we felt welcome and safe throughout our visit.
   For her part, Erika seems to know everyone in the province, where she is widely respected for her expert equestrian skills ? no mean feat in a country where riding (let alone running a business) is still considered a ?guy thing.?
   This was a well-organized riding vacation, run by delightful people in a stunningly beautiful land. Pam and I can?t wait to return.